How do I
determine which finish care product to use on which finish?
The first step is to
determine whether your finish is high gloss (high polish) or satin (rubbed).
High polish finishes are mirror like and reflect light and images. High gloss
can be wood tone, black or literally any color as long as they are shiny. If the
finish is high gloss, proceed to the FAQ for maintaining
high gloss finishes.
Satin finishes are usually rubbed in
one-direction with the grain and are dull looking. For this discussion, we will
be dealing with wood tone finishes versus black. Most common household furniture
fall into the satin category. If the finish is satin and wood tone, proceed to the FAQs for maintaining satin
finishes.
Satin Ebony (black) finishes are treated separately and
require specific polishes and maintenance. If you are dealing with a satin ebony
finish, please see FAQs specifically for maintaining satin
ebony finishes.
If you are dealing with unfinished or natural wood,
please see FAQs for maintaining unfinished wood
finishes.
Finally, if you have water damaged wood, please see our FAQs on removing water damage.
How do I maintain the high gloss finish on my piano or
furniture?
Cory High Gloss polish is designed to be used on all high
polish finishes regardless of the materials used for finishing. We treat
finishes made from lacquer, polyester, and polyurethane the same.
Steinway
Furniture Care Products are ideal for your Steinway Piano Finish, as well as
your other fine furniture.
As with
all finishes, the surface has to be clean to be conditioned. Cory Products are
special water base formulas designed for safe use on all high polish finishes.
This means that any oil base polishes or cleaners that have been previously
applied to the surface need to be removed before polish application. The
following tips apply regardless of the material the gloss is made
of......polyester, lacquer, urethane, etc.
For most circumstances, use
Cory Key-Brite Key Cleaner or Steinway Furniture Care Cleanse and condition to prep and clean the surface. For heavy build up of
waxes and oils, use Cory Coconut Wood Cleaner.
To remove fine surface
scratches and deep clean older finishes, buff the finish with Cory Buff-Brite
rubbing compound.
Test polish on inconspicuous area to check for polish
compatibility!
Lightly spray Cory Super High-Gloss Polish directly onto large
surfaces or into polishing cloth for hard to reach areas. Follow the instruction
for Steinway Furniture Care Two to three pumps
from 6-8 inches away is enough polish to do about half of a top on an average
grand piano. Excessive polish will cause buildup and be time consuming to
remove. Wipe dry and buff with a clean, dry, soft cloth. If the surface cleans
and shines easily than proceed to complete the job with this process.
If
the polish streaks and resists the cloth than an oil and/or dirt base is still
present and it may be necessary to additionally clean the surface as described
previously. AVOID SPRAYING ANYTHING ON OR NEAR THE STRINGS AND TUNING PINS ON
PIANOS! Apply Cory Super High-Gloss Polish as often as desired for regular
maintenance.
How do I maintain the satin/wood tone
finish on my piano or furniture?
Wood finishing materials have
evolved dramatically in the past fifty years. Originally finishing materials
were made of varnish or rubbing oils until roughly the 1940’s. The next
generation of materials used was lacquer. In the mid 70’s to early 80’s,
finishes became environmentally driven to water base. This history can be used
as a guideline to determine what finishing material was used and the suitable
polish to be used.
If your piano or furniture is brand new or relatively
new, your best choice to clean and maintain the surface would be Cory Satin
Sheen or Steinway Furniture Care Supreme Polish.
Pre-cleaning may be required for surfaces where oil-based polishes
such as Pledge or similar lemon oils have been used. Use CORY Coconut Cleaner, Steinway
Furniture Care Cleanse and Condition, or Key-Brite Key Cleaner to clean newer satin finishes. If deep cleaning of oil and
wax is required on newer poly finishes, use Cory Buff-Brite. Test
all products on
small inconspicious area to assure finish compatibility.
Satin Sheen is a
water-based cleaner and conditioner that has sheen enhancers. It is not designed
to add shine or gloss to the finish; instead it cleans and conditions high-end
satin finishes.
Spray Satin-Sheen 6-8 inches from finish. DO NOT SPRAY
NEAR STRINGS OR TUNING PINS ON PIANOS. Wipe in the direction of the grain with a
soft clean cloth. Cory Satin Sheen will not cause buildup and can be used as
often as needed.
If your piano or
furniture is pre 1980’s and/or has been maintained with oil based polishes such
as pledge or lemon oil, it is best to stay with oil-based products. Use Cory
Case Oil or All-Brite polish for piano finishes. Use Cory Natural Wood or
All-Brite polish for older fine furniture.
How do I maintain the satin ebony finish
on my piano or furniture?
Satin Ebony finishes
have evolved through the years. They have gone from varnish to lacquer to the
latest water based poly finishes. Our approach is to maintain these unique
finishes with water-based technology. If your finish is 5 years old or newer, we
recommend using our new Cory Satin Polyester Conditioner. For all other satin
ebony finishes, we recommend using our Cory Satin Sheen.
Satin Sheen and
Satin Polyester Conditioners are water-based cleaners and conditioners that
contain sheen enhancers. They are designed to add little shine or gloss to the
finish. Instead they clean and condition high-end satin finishes. Pre-cleaning
may be required for surfaces with heavy wax build up or surfaces maintained with
oil-based polishes such as Pledge or similar lemon oils. Use CORY Coconut
Cleaner or Key-Brite Key Cleaner to deep clean all satin ebony finishes. If deep
cleaning of oil and wax is required on newer poly finishes, use Cory Buff-Brite.
Test Satin Sheen and Satin Polyester on small inconspicious area to assure
finish compatibility.
Spray polish 6-8 inches from
finish. DO NOT SPRAY NEAR STRINGS OR TUNING PINS. Wipe in the direction of the
grain with a soft clean cloth. Use as often as needed without build up. Use
Cory’s professional lacquer touch-up markers to color finish the edges and
blemishes.
Some of the older satin ebony finishes have deteriorated too
much for the Satin-Sheen to be effective. If your cleaning cloth is turning
extremely black, this could be an indication that the clear coat has broken down
leaving only a thin layer of color coat. It may still be possible to rub this
finish lightly with steel wool and Satin Rub but we recommend you have some
experience doing this procedure. If there is no workable finish left, you can
use Cory Case Oil or All-Brite polish to clean up and add a little luster to the
finish.
How do I maintain my unfinished or
natural wood piano or furniture?
Cleaning unfinished wood is vitally
important to maintaining its original color and beauty. Deep clean unfinished
wood with Cory Coconut Wood Cleaner. Apply either Cory Kona Oil or Natural Wood
polish liberally. Allow to soak in and buff to sheen.
How do I repair water marks on pianos or
furniture?
Here area few helpful steps for dealing with white rings
commonly caused by wet glasses or spills on lacquer, shellac, or varnish
finishes. Analyze Damage: The extent of damage can be estimated by analyzing the
color of the rings. White Ring: Generally a temporary condition. If the finish
is in good enough condition this mark can be removed without stripping. Yellow
Ring: Indicates more serious damage resulting from prolonged water contact.
These occur often on older, brittle, or deteriorated finishes. Although more
difficult, some are repairable with simple measures as the moisture has not yet
penetrated the wood itself. Black/Gray Rings: Occur when the moisture has
penetrated through to the wood itself. Refinishing, bleaching, and sanding are
usually needed here.
General rule of thumb is to use the gentlest means
possible and progress from there.
STEP ONE: Would be to do nothing.
Many times a ring will repair and dry out itself, so give it ample time. Next,
try putting the damaged piece in direct sunlight or use quick passes with an
electric hair dryer to speed up the process. STEP TWO: Moisten a soft
cotton cloth with mineral spirits or naphtha lightly wiping the area. If this
has no affect try denatured alcohol next. Be sure to test on an inconspicuous
place first as the alcohol will remove shellac. STEP THREE: If the stain
persists, it’s time to try rubbing with mineral oil and rottenstone or baking
soda as an abrasive. Be careful not to rub through the finish. If the spot
disappears, you’ll probably need to rub the sheen back with 0000 steel wool and
Cory Satin-Rub and re-wax the area to blend. STEP FOUR: If there’s still
no progress you’ll probably have to strip. Mask off the undamaged areas at the
joinery breaks and strip the finish just in the spotted area. Try to keep the
stain or patina in tact if you can and avoid sanding as this will require
staining. Care should be taken with antiques as the stain is often viewed as
character defining or a true indication of age.
BEFORE YOU STRIP…. 1)
Be patient….the problem may resolve itself. 2) Try drying the spot in direct
sunlight or with a blow dryer. 3) Still there? Wipe the blush spot with some
solvent. 4) Didn’t work? Move on to rubbing out the finish. 5) Still see
your spot? Strip the damaged section only. 6) Sorry, you are out of options.
Strip the entire piece.
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